London’s luxury watch scene is dominated by polished, high-end boutiques with a formal atmosphere – perfectly suited for the affluent clientele they cater to. Yet, tucked away on Berkeley Street in Mayfair is a refreshing departure from the norm: Chiefer Jewellery, a boutique that opened in 2023 and offers a distinctly unpretentious and inviting experience. This shift in atmosphere is largely thanks to its founder, Chiefer Appiah, whose infectious enthusiasm for watches and jewellery brings a personal touch to his business.
Appiah, whose easygoing manner contrasts with the often-stiff environment of high-end retail, is deeply invested in ensuring his clients feel at ease. His passion for his pieces is evident, though he is not afraid to steer customers away from a watch he believes doesn’t suit them. “I don’t want to sell you something you don’t need,” he explains. “It’s about finding the right match.” This candid, client-focused approach has cultivated a loyal following, with 40 percent of visitors returning for his curated selection of collectible watches.
The clientele at Chiefer Jewellery is as diverse as the pieces on offer. “From musicians to bankers to multibillionaires – it’s literally all over the place,” says Appiah, reflecting on the eclectic mix of customers he serves. In his Mayfair store, you’ll find footballers, boxers, pop stars, and local residents all browsing together. “It’s a beautiful thing because it’s a cocktail of different people,” Appiah adds, gesturing to the variety of individuals who make his boutique a unique destination.
What sets Appiah apart from his peers in Mayfair is his background. Raised on a council estate in Tottenham and of Ghanaian descent, he carved out a place for himself in the traditionally white, family-run world of luxury watch dealing. “I never dreamed of this, but my determination pushed me to do it,” he reflects. His rise to success wasn’t handed to him; it was earned through hard work, a sharp business mind, and a self-taught understanding of an industry that, until recently, had largely been closed off to him.
Chiefer Jewellery offers a curated selection of pre-owned and vintage replica watches from iconic brands like Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet, along with pieces from top-tier independent watchmakers. The inventory, while featuring well-known names, also reflects Appiah’s personal taste and a keen eye for quality. Expect to see watches in gold, but with a focus on understated elegance rather than ostentation. Recently, for example, the store featured a white-gold 36mm Datejust, a limited-edition Grade 5 titanium 44mm Machine with a green dial, and a 41mm openworked rose-gold Royal Oak.
The store’s design mirrors the personality of its founder – innovative, approachable, and a little quirky. One of the highlights is a large circular wall installation that features 32 watches, creating a dynamic and ever-changing display. Above, metallic spheres, hand-placed by Appiah himself, add a touch of whimsy to the space. The layout feels both modern and inviting, ensuring customers feel comfortable while browsing the impressive selection.
Building relationships with both clients and suppliers has been key to Appiah’s success. His network includes everyone from established dealers in Hatton Garden to private collectors ready to part with prized possessions. This ever-evolving collection is tailored to reflect current trends, such as the growing preference for rose gold over diamond-encrusted watches, though there are still some standout pieces for those looking for something a little more eye-catching. Women, drawn in by Appiah’s custom jewellery designs, also frequent the store. His pieces, like diamond pendants shaped like Jamaica or South Africa, are conversation starters that complement the store’s watch offerings.
Appiah’s passion for jewellery and watches is deeply rooted in his childhood. As a young boy, he would help his mother select bold cocktail rings and earrings for special occasions, fostering a sense of creativity and appreciation for fine accessories. His interest in watches began when, at 19, his brother lent him money to buy a Rolex Datejust, marking the start of a lifelong fascination with horology.
In his early adulthood, Appiah worked in the music industry, first in marketing, then managing the artist Sway, with whom he co-founded the label Dcypha Productions. It was during this time that his distinctive sense of style – showcased through his self-designed jewellery – began to attract attention. “If Chiefer’s wearing it, it’s cool,” his friends would often say, and soon they were buying pieces from him. Eventually, Appiah’s passion for jewellery grew, leading him to transition into full-time sales, specializing in watches and accessories.
Determined to break into the competitive world of high-end jewellery, Appiah spent countless hours learning the trade in Hatton Garden, an area known for its expertise in the jewellery business. “I knew the information was out there, I just had to crack it,” he recalls. His persistence paid off, and soon he earned the trust of dealers and customers alike, leading to his first boutique in Mayfair.
Appiah’s business philosophy revolves around trust and authenticity. “In the world of pre-owned, trust is everything,” says Hamish Robertson, co-founder of The replica Watch Collectors’ Club. “You need to know you’re buying from someone who knows their stuff.” For Appiah, that trust is built not just through his expertise but also through his personal connection with his clients. “They trust me because I’m like them,” he says. “It’s about being genuine and making them feel comfortable.”
Appiah’s commitment to his craft extends beyond sales; he is now working on opening his own jewellery academy to help others break into the industry. His aim is to offer young people, particularly from underrepresented backgrounds, the opportunity to learn the trade. “I don’t want them to go through what I went through,” he says, motivated by his own experiences to provide access to the same opportunities that helped him succeed.